The waxboil method is the most consistent and easiest method currently available to restore Alps (and other) switches. It has been tested on a wide variety of switches at this point, and results have held up in the two years since its discovery. This page is an attempt to create a canonical source of waxboil information in text form.

The method contains two stages:

• Boil stage: plastic parts are boiled in a rolling boil to clean them. This works due to a combination of heat and agitation by a rolling boil, loosening dirt and detritus that would otherwise be very solidly stuck on, especially if a switch was previously factory lubricated.
• Waxboil stage: wax is added to boiled water which melts and creates a film along the surface of the water. Switch parts that require waxing are lowered into and then lifted out of the water in order to create a deposition of wax on them. The closest analog to this process is hydrodipping.

A wide variety - the process was initially discovered on Alps SKCC switches and then transferred over to the SKCM/SKCL series. Later testing has shown that a number of switches can be waxboiled, but not all are safe. There's a spreadsheet of known waxboil safety here. If you're testing a switch that hasn't been tested before, definitely be careful and just try a single switch rather than a batch. We're looking to add this information to Keyswitch Background Information in a future release.

• Boil housings and stems, for up to 10 minutes depending on how bad the switch condition is. Stir occasionally. You don't need to boil any parts that don't have an impact on the sliding action of the switch (e.g. Alps bottom housings)
• Remove all parts and separate out the stems.
• In a pan full of boiling water (stove off), add some wax. There is no specific amount to use, as batch sizes vary. Less is more, however. You should be able to see a decent sheen across the surface of the water.
• Use a strainer to dip the stems into the waxy water. You should do batches that are small enough to not have stems overlapping one another.
• After removing the stems, wait a couple of seconds for the wax to start solidifying, and then dump them out onto some kitchen towel to dry. Do not rinse the stems.
• Wait for stems to dry. If these are stems for clicky/tactile Alps switches, scrape the wax off the edge that comes into contact with the click/tactile leaf.

Q: Is this real?

A: Yes.

Q: What about the jar method I keep hearing about?

A: We actively recommend against the jar method. This method involves shaking the switch parts in a jar during the wax application stage. Agitation of high temperature water in a sealed container is dangerous and can lead to you scalding yourself with both hot water and hot wax (which will stick!) when the pressure inside the container builds and the contents escape. If that wasn't enough to put you off, it's very easy to over-apply or apply the wax inconsistently as the hydrodipping-esque action isn't as cleanly executed.

Q: I put wax on my switch and now it feels worse! What gives?

A: You likely have a slightly too thick film of wax. You can either fix this by reboiling briefly in water or just mash the key a bunch. If you opt to mash, I'd open the switch back up and blow out any wax shavings that are inside, and brush the shavings off the top.

Q: How long will this last?

A: It's hard to say for sure, but switches that were waxboiled two years ago are still going strong to this day. This page will be updated if any longevity time is figured out.

Q: Is there any particular candle type I should use?

A: Tealight wax. If you want to be more specific, Sasol 5203 tealight wax.